It's Darn Hard to be an Expert These Days

I am always amazed at the number of new wines I hear about in the world. A new Primitivo from California, a Tokaji from Hungary and a new table wine from Portugal – how can I, or anyone for that matter, offer a relevant and insightful recommendation? Well, the truth is we can’t. I will try to only offer insights into what I’ve read and tasted in the last month or so and hope that we will collectively enjoy these wines. So, in that vein I offer the March favorites (not to say there won’t be more, the beauty of an on-line forum after all, is flexibility).

I am the first to admit to being a neophyte in this whole wine thing – a few years ago I wouldn’t have known a Tokaji from Hungary from an Austrian Gruner Veltliner but with study and tasting diligence I came to understand that a certain lake area in Hungary is famous for its sweet dessert wines – and with palate diversification came appreciation for what for 400 years has been considered a delicacy nearly on par with Sauternes in France. Nearly impossible to find in Montana, it is a delicacy equal to the task of finding, sweet but with equal acidity it is not only worth the effort but will reward the seeker with a tasting delight that will surpass, God forbid, a Dairy Queen dessert.

A second discovery are the great wines of our neighbor, the state of Washington. Despite the falling from grace of the Merlot grape due to the pretentious movie of a few years past, Sideways, this grape, in my opinion, reaches its American epitome in the cool and not dissimilar from Montana, long August and September evenings – allowing the grapes to ripen to their fullest flavor profile. The part-time Sun River resident and Walla Walla vineyard owner Ray Goff offers a bottle in this unique Northwest flavor profile – the semi-expensive Pepperbridge Merlot gives a glimpse into what is surely the anti-Sideways view of this underrated grape.

Speaking of an underrated grape – again as a previous wine neophyte – I always thought of the Sangiovese grape as a “Burgundian Wanna Be”. NO MORE! An in-expensive American version of the classic Italian varietal comes again, from our neighbors to the west – Washington. One of my favorite versions of the classic Chianti grape comes from the vineyard Waving Tree. The familiar Tuscan flavors of raspberry and strawberry are present along with a hard to find tannic edge in the inexpensive native version of this varietal. The finish is not overly long, but if you are seeking a quaffing type of wine that goes well with a variety of entrees, Wishing Tree is your panacea.

Life, like wine on the finish, can’t be nearly long enough, but here’s wishing you a long and (in these times) semi-prosperous go at it! – SANTE!

mt